I always set myself new challenges when I travel, with intentions and desires to see the world in a different way than what I have experienced so far, even if I repeat the same country again. However, there will always be that area or that important event that the inhabitants celebrate once a year, and that are less known by conventional tourism. Well, this is where I am going to stop: that year I had planned to make the trip through the most important ceremonies and festivals that take place in the world, and to begin with I chose Ethiopia to experience the Coptic Epiphany of the Orthodox Church, which in Amharic language is called Timkat.
It all started on January 18 in the former imperial capital, Gondar, where every year, during Timkat, the blessing of the waters ceremony is held.
PREPARATION
It was the day before Timkat and the girls were starting to comb their hair and put on the dresses they had inherited from their mothers.
The girls were combing their hair to look pretty on Timkat day
The suits have been inherited by the different generations
There was a festive atmosphere in the streets, although everyone had to continue with their daily tasks. The Ethiopians are very simple people who live with what little they have.
TABOT
Everything was ready for the start of the ceremony. It was in the Medhanealem church. Inside each church they were preparing to take out the Tabot, a replica of the Ark of the Covenant, where the Tablets of the 10 Commandments are located. They say that the original tablets are in Axum, in the north of the country, where they were taken by King Mekelin, who had borrowed them from the House of Solomon. It is tradition for each church to keep a copy of the Tablets.
In the church of Medhanealem they were preparing to take out the Tabot in the street
The procession began through the streets of Gondar
During Timkat, the only time to see the Tabot is just when it is being carried out of the churches in procession to show it to the faithful. The ark is carried on the head of a priest. It is wrapped in colorful velvet fabrics, like the suits worn by priests, deacons and other ecclesiastical leaders, along with the faithful who go out into the street to accompany them singing lively songs.
The Tabot is carried on top of the priest’s head
The Tabot is wrapped in velvet fabrics like the suits worn by priests, deacons and other ecclesiastical leaders
WAY OUT OF THE TABOT
From each church comes a procession presided over by the cross and the Tabot, and at each of the crosses it stops to receive the members of the six churches that converge. Protected from the sun by luxurious and colorful ceremonial umbrellas, they carry incense burners and large crosses made of wood, silver and gold.
From each church comes a procession presided over by the cross and the Tabot, and at each of the crosses it stops to receive the members of the six churches that converge
Protected from the sun by luxurious and colorful ceremonial umbrellas, they carry incense burners and large wooden crosses
And now in procession they will go down three kilometers to the pond of King Faisides. It is mandatory that they step on the red carpet that will be placed at all times along the way. The slowness makes it take about 5 hours to arrive. Depending on how, following them in the middle of the crowd becomes difficult.
It is mandatory that they step on the red carpet that will be laid out along the way
They will walk three kilometers to the pond of King Faisides
Floods of people accompany the entourage, which is made up of deacons, students dressed in white and groups with canes singing and dancing to the rhythm of drums at a frenetic rhythm.
Floods of people accompany the procession, which is made up of deacons and students dressed in white
They accompany the entourage singing and dancing to the beat of the drums
At four in the morning a mass begins that gives you goosebumps. It’s still dark. The faithful are dressed in white and carry lighted candles and open Bibles in their hands. The effect of the candlelight reflected on their faces full of faith is really very difficult to explain.
The Tabots are entering to King Faisides Pond
At dawn a mass begins
The faithful are dressed in white and carry lighted candles in their hands
During mass they read the Bible. They are moments of great peace after the noise of the day
And towards dawn the highest ecclesiastical authorities of Gondar surround the pool together with the deacons and all the representatives of the six churches to culminate the party by celebrating the Divine Liturgy. Thus they commemorate the baptism of Christ in the Jordan River. After a sermon, the waters are blessed and sprinkled by the participants, who are invited to renew their baptismal promises by immersion.
The highest ecclesiastical authorities of Gondar surround the pool together with the deacons and all the representatives of the six churches
With the bath they commemorate the baptism of Christ in the Jordan River
RETURN OF THE TABOT
But the party does not end there. The rest of the day continues with Tabot’s procession back to its church. The colorful costumes and umbrellas of the clergy light up the periphery, while the participants dance joyfully and the children are elated. They all sing rhythmic songs that seem to shake the ground, from sunrise to sunset, when the holy ark has been safely placed in their church.
The next day continues with the procession to bring back the Tabot to its church
The deacons attentively observing the procession, some very tired
But there is always a Tabot left in the pool of King Faisilides. They save it for the next day, Saint Michael’s day, the patron saint of the most important church in Gondar. The color of the procession is still magnificent, while there is a huge festive atmosphere. The struggle to get the best images is intense, and I feel truly privileged to be there experiencing it with my own eyes.
I have been privileged to live the Timkat
This was the moment for our private celebration with a family, who invited me to eat doro wat, the typical dish of the Timkat festival, made with chicken and eggs. It had a very spicy flavor.
The family that invited me to eat the typical Timkat dish
The typical dish: doro wat
I say goodbye to Gondar to return to Addis and start the second part of the trip.
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