One of the highlights of the trip to Gabon was experiencing a Bwiti ceremony, an experience that I was able to do thanks to a friend from Libreville, the country’s capital, who passed me a contact in Lambaréné, the city where they held the ceremony.
They did one at a family’s house. I was the only guest. They sat me next to the teacher to experience the ceremony.
The Bwiti is a cult or religious movement originating in Gabon that transports you to the sounds and sensations of ancient Africa.
The ceremony begins at night, between torches, with the unmistakable howl of the horn of a sitatunga antelope, which is used to call the spirits. Then the rattles and the tam tam of the drums sound. You have to stay awake, as they won’t stop until the morning of the next day.
The two patients who wanted healing entered: a young boy who had a heart bad condition and a lady who had a lot of rheumatism. For them this ceremony could cure them.
The Bwiti, which today has many initiates in Gabon, focuses on animism and ancestor worship, often including aspects of Christianity.
Its fundamental core is the ingestion of the root bark of the iboga tree, cultivated specifically for the ritual that is used in initiation rites and in all other ceremonies, including healing.
This hallucinogenic preparation allows the initiates to travel to the land of the ancestors, meet with God and Wisdom, as well as return to early childhood or suppress all dependence on narcotics.
If it is ingested in significant quantities, it causes a stoppage that is supposed to connect with the essence of your being and the universe.
Practitioners paint their bodies and faces with red and white powder, dress in red, white, and black, and wear skirts made of raffia, animal skins, shells, and feathers. They dance hitting the ground. Everything vibrates and the only light is that of fire.
There are ancient songs and dances and the voice of the Nganga (spiritual leader) who whispers: “Iboga makes your body heavy and your spirit light. This is Gabon!”
It was good, but it was very tiring. A unique ceremony never seen.
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