{"id":13298,"date":"2020-03-05T17:09:16","date_gmt":"2020-03-05T16:09:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/islas-de-nusa-tenggara-sumba\/"},"modified":"2021-05-01T19:24:58","modified_gmt":"2021-05-01T17:24:58","slug":"the-nusa-tenggara-islands-sumba","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/en\/the-nusa-tenggara-islands-sumba\/","title":{"rendered":"The Nusa Tenggara islands: Sumba"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.22&#8243;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;3.25&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;3.25&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;3.27.4&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221;]I remember when I said that I was going to travel to the <strong>islands of Nusa Tenggara<\/strong>; I saw faces of surprise around me. Naturally, although the name sounds like islands of the Pacific, the place is unknown. These islands are located in the archipelago of Indonesia, between Bali and Australia. The Nusa Tenggara or islands of the Southeast, they form the islands of <strong>Sumba, Timor, Flores, Komodo, Sumbawa<\/strong> and <strong>Lombok<\/strong>, among other minors. I was aware that in a month I would not have time to meet them all and, besides, I wanted to take this trip very calmly: if I found a place that I liked, I would stay; if a family invited me, I could not say no; if I came to a virgin beach, I would remain there; If there is a funeral, I will attend it. Therefore, I wanted to make a leisurely trip, in my style, as a &#8220;The quite traveler&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13264\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_mapa-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"750\" height=\"267\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_mapa-1.jpg 750w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_mapa-1-480x171.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 750px, 100vw\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was my third trip to Indonesia. Maybe you will think: &#8220;Again, Indonesia?&#8221; Yes, because there are fewer and fewer countries that remain intact, except the islands of the Pacific.<\/p>\n<p>Indonesia is a huge country, which has 13,700 islands and an ethnic and cultural variety of the richest in Asia. Within Indonesia itself you can not compare Irian Jaya with Java, Bali with Lombok, Sumba with Timor, and the Moluccas with Sumatra. It has many travel facilities, people are openminded, and life is very cheap.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The islands of Nusa Tenggara<\/strong> have a wide transport network that allowed me to move from island to island taking small planes. But I had to organize very well, since there were no daily flights to the islands. On the other hand, the land transport was done with buses and &#8220;bemos&#8221; so as not to have to depend on some schedules; I chose the private motorcycle that consisted of going as a &#8220;package&#8221;. Since work is scarce, many young people save to buy a motorcycle that they use as public transport, and thus are able to pay for it and have a decent job. And for me it was the best way to know the best places on the island.<\/p>\n<p><strong>SUMBA<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>After a stopover in Bali, I arrived at Sumba Island. It has an animist culture as rich as fascinating, particular funeral rites and an intact landscape and rural beauty. It is the least visited island, therefore, the most unknown.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13267\" style=\"width: 1210px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13267\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13267\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_waingapu-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_waingapu-2.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_waingapu-2-980x656.jpg 980w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_waingapu-2-480x321.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1200px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13267\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice fields, Waingapu<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The island is divided into two regions: the east and the west of Sumba. To the east, <strong>Waingapu<\/strong> was the gateway to the island and the first contact with the Sumbanese.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13272\" style=\"width: 696px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13272\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13272\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_nina_bandomarotto-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_nina_bandomarotto-3.jpg 686w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_nina_bandomarotto-3-480x717.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 686px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13272\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Girl, Bandomarotto<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This is where I established the base to know the villages known for the famous <em>ikats<\/em>, the most famous handmade fabrics in the country. The designs, very expressive and bright colors, are historical representations and show a variety of very surprising reasons: trees, deer, snakes, horses, human figures, etc.<\/p>\n<p>On the other hand, the west is more traditional, and <strong>Waikabubak<\/strong> is the base town to meet and tour the traditional villages also called <em>kampungs<\/em>. On the other hand, the south has the most beautiful and spectacular beaches of all Nusa Tenggara.<\/p>\n<p>In the east of Sumba I stayed at a nobleman&#8217;s house in the village of <strong>Prailiu,<\/strong> next to Waingapu. He had a rank like the mayor. In Sumba, wealth is given by possessions; the more land and animals (buffaloes, horses, pigs) a person has, the richer the others consider it. I was welcomed by a large family of eight children and with them I was able to share small family parties as a member of the family.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13273\" style=\"width: 696px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13273\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13273\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_kepala_desa_waikabubak-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_kepala_desa_waikabubak-4.jpg 686w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_kepala_desa_waikabubak-4-480x717.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 686px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13273\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The <em>kepala desa<\/em>, chief of the town of Waikabubak<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I began to immerse myself in the customs and I learned to behave in situations very different from my culture. Life in Sumba revolves around crops, livestock, poultry and betel.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13276\" style=\"width: 1210px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13276\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_malolo-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_malolo-5.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_malolo-5-980x656.jpg 980w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_malolo-5-480x321.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1200px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13276\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice fields of Malolo<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Every time I visited a village, I had to ask the permission to the <em>kepala desa<\/em>, the village chief, to allow me to enter. And the protocol was to offer each other the <em>betel <\/em>that the locals chew.<\/p>\n<p>Chewing betel nut is a common practice that has stimulating properties and gives strength to continue the day. Betel nuts are mixed with leaves that are filled with dead lime and other substances that are used to chew them. They cause a lot of red saliva to be produced, which spits and dyes the mouth and teeth, and makes them fall with the passage of time. Before, the beauty of women was measured by the redness of the mouth.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13279\" style=\"width: 696px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13279\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_prepararando_betel-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_prepararando_betel-6.jpg 686w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_prepararando_betel-6-480x717.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 686px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13279\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preparing the betel<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I am surprised by their animist culture as their little universe revolves around the <em>marapu<\/em>, the spirits present at all times of life, from birth to death. In fact, before any minimally important act &#8211; a trip, a wedding, the beginning of a harvest, the construction of a house &#8211; they will appeal to the <em>marapu<\/em>, in order to ensure a good result or a happy ending.<\/p>\n<p>On the other hand, the west of Sumba is an intact tropical paradise. I liked it much more than the east. I was surprised by their fantastic rural houses or <em>kampungs,<\/em> built in the shape of a pyramid on pillars of trunks. They always follow an exact pattern and are constructed according to a social and ritual unit. They are usually grouped around the stone tombs of their ancestors. Although I had already seen them to the east, these constructions are even more impressive, as the ceilings are taller and more elaborate. It is necessary to emphasize the towns of <strong>Ratenggaro<\/strong> and <strong>Rangabake<\/strong> for being located in idyllic places, near the sea. Here the people received me with much curiosity and as in all Sumba, with the usual welcome of: &#8220;Hello Mister!!!\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13282\" style=\"width: 1210px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13282\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_tradicional_kampung_ratenggaro-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_tradicional_kampung_ratenggaro-7.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_tradicional_kampung_ratenggaro-7-980x656.jpg 980w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_tradicional_kampung_ratenggaro-7-480x321.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1200px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13282\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional\u00a0<em>kampung<\/em>, Ratenggaro<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Luckily, there are still pretty virgin beaches in the world. I mean the beaches of <strong>Marosi <\/strong>and <strong>Rua<\/strong>. Although the Sumbanese live with their backs to the sea and only use it to fish. Therefore, you can walk completely alone, through spectacular, paradisiacal and desert beaches. Yes, really alone, without hotels, houses or roads. I just admired the contrast of the lush vegetation that dies in the white sand and the turquoise sea of \u200b\u200bits beaches. I run I walk, I jump; I couldn\u2019t believe where I was. I had let the hours pass under the tropical sun, diving, collecting shells on the beach. I sat down on the conch shells and coral sprayed to breathe the beauty and tranquility that surrounded me. For a moment, the rest of the world had disappeared beyond the horizon.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13285\" style=\"width: 1210px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13285\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13285\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_playa_marosi_kadenga-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_playa_marosi_kadenga-8.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_playa_marosi_kadenga-8-980x656.jpg 980w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_playa_marosi_kadenga-8-480x321.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1200px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13285\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marosi beach, Kadenga<\/p><\/div>\n<p>But one of the goals that was pending in Sumba are the funerals, very similar to the Toraja people of Sulawesi, of which they differ simply the place where the deceased are buried.<\/p>\n<p>Mr. Bunni Mesa Woleka, 55, had died in the village of <strong>Kalimbukuni<\/strong>.\u00a0I went at the day of the funeral; I introduced myself to the family and asked permission to witness and photograph such a dignified ceremony. As a sign of respect, I dressed like them in the traditional dress consisting of a turban and a vivid sarong around my waist, from which a dagger camouflaged in a wooden case hung.<\/p>\n<p>Death is the most important event in the life of the Sumbanese. They believe that if the deceased is given a great party, the deceased will become an ancestor and watch over the well-being, health and luck of their families.<\/p>\n<p>It all started early in the morning, when more than 200 guests were arriving by the music of the brass gongs. They brought gifts for the relatives of the deceased, to whom they gave their condolences. It consisted in buffaloes, horses or pigs, which arrived adorned for the occasion, and also with <em>ikat<\/em> cloths and garland flower crowns. All the guests sat under the large tent that had been set up to welcome them. It begins with the religious ceremony in which the Methodist Christian priest will make a sermon, accompanied by a choir that interprets emotional songs. Then it is time to eat and the family has prepared a large buffet where nothing is missing. Once the stomachs are satisfied, the final apotheosis of the ceremony arrives: the sacrifice of the animals. They are sacrificed in a number proportional to the wealth of the family of the deceased. The first buffalo appeared, dragged by ten men, while the executioner held the knife ready to make a dry cut in the neck, causing the blood to flow like a fountain. The animal still had the strength to refuse to die in such a cruel way, but in a few minutes it falls down because of the loss of blood, which spreads like a red river. One after another, the sacrifices are repeated until killing a total of eleven buffaloes. This not only gave them a true euphoria so they did not have enough, and they did the same with a horse. That was already the end point of a great bloody ceremony that ended with the dismemberment of all the dead animals to remove their guts and meat, which was then distributed to all the guests. I also took my part however I had a hard time watching this dantesque show.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_13288\" style=\"width: 1210px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13288\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13288\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_ceremonia_funeral_kalimbukuni-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_ceremonia_funeral_kalimbukuni-8.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_ceremonia_funeral_kalimbukuni-8-980x656.jpg 980w, https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_ceremonia_funeral_kalimbukuni-8-480x321.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1200px, 100vw\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-13288\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ceremony of a funeral in Kalimbukuni<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Then the deceased was buried with symbolic offerings of food, ornaments, clothing, jewelry and betel to chew.<\/p>\n<p>A few days later, I had the opportunity to attend another funeral in <strong>Waikabubak<\/strong>. The mother of a well-known town politician had died.<\/p>\n<p>What separates them from us is the concept of death: for us it is a goodbye, and for them it is a journey to another dimension.<br \/>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I remember when I said that I was going to travel to the islands of Nusa Tenggara; I saw faces of surprise around me. Naturally, although the name sounds like [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13296,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"<p>Recuerdo que, cuando dije que me iba a las <strong>islas de Nusa Tenggara<\/strong>, contempl\u00e9 caras de sorpresa a m\u00ed alrededor. Como es natural, aunque el nombre te \u00a0suena a islas del Pac\u00edfico, el lugar no es nada conocido. Son islas situadas en el archipi\u00e9lago de Indonesia, entre Bali y Australia. Las Nusa Tenggara o islas del sudeste, las forman las islas de Sumba, Timor, Flores, Komodo, Sumbawa y Lombok, entre otras menores. Yo era consciente de que en un mes no tendr\u00eda tiempo de conocerlas todas y, adem\u00e1s, quer\u00eda tomarme este viaje con mucha tranquilidad, es decir, que si encontraba un lugar que me gustase, me quedar\u00eda; si me invitaba una familia, no podr\u00eda decir que no; si llegaba a una playa virgen, pues permanecer\u00eda en ella; si hab\u00eda un funeral, pues asistir\u00eda. Por lo tanto, deseaba hacer un viaje sin prisas, a mi estilo, a lo \u201cThe quite traveler\u201d.<\/p><p><img class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13266\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_mapa-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"750\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p><p>Era mi tercer viaje a Indonesia. Quiz\u00e1 pensaras: \u201c\u00bfOtra vez, Indonesia?\u201d. Pues s\u00ed, porque cada vez quedan menos pa\u00edses que se mantengan \u00edntegros, excepto las islas del Pac\u00edfico.<\/p><p>Indonesia es un pa\u00eds inmenso, que tiene 13.700 islas y una variedad \u00e9tnica y cultural de las m\u00e1s ricas de Asia. Dentro de la propia Indonesia no se puede comparar Irian Jaya con Java, Bali con Lombok, Sumba con Timor o las Molucas con Sumatra. Dispone de muchas facilidades de desplazamiento, la gente es abierta y hospitalaria, y la vida es muy barata, por lo tanto, tambi\u00e9n lo es viajar.<\/p><p>Las <strong>islas de Nusa Tenggara<\/strong> tienen una amplia red de transportes que me permiti\u00f3 circular de isla en isla cogiendo aviones peque\u00f1os de veinte plazas. Pero deb\u00eda organizarme muy bien, ya que no hab\u00eda vuelos diarios a las islas. En cambio, el transporte terrestre se basaba en autobuses y <em>bemos. P<\/em>ara no tener que depender de unos horarios siempre inexistentes, escog\u00ed el taxi privado, que consist\u00eda en ir de \u201cpaquete\u201d en una moto. \u00a0Dado que el trabajo es escaso, muchos j\u00f3venes ahorran para comprarse una moto, la utilizan como transporte p\u00fablico, as\u00ed pueden pagarla y ganan algo de dinero. Desde el pueblo base donde resid\u00eda, con un motorista pact\u00e9 el itinerario que har\u00edamos cada d\u00eda. Fue una buena manera de conocer los mejores lugares de la isla.<\/p><p><strong>SUMBA<\/strong><\/p><p>Despu\u00e9s de hacer una escala en Bali, llegue a la isla de Sumba. Tiene una cultura animista tan rica como fascinante, ritos funerarios particulares y una belleza tanto paisaj\u00edstica como rural intacta. Es la isla menos visitada y, por lo tanto, la m\u00e1s desconocida.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13267\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13269\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_waingapu-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" \/> Campos de arroz, Waingapu[\/caption]<p>La isla est\u00e1 dividida en dos regiones: el este y el oeste de Sumba. Al este, <strong>Waingapu<\/strong> fue la puerta de entrada a la isla y el primer contacto con los sumbaneses.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13270\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"686\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13272\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_nina_bandomarotto-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" \/> Ni\u00f1a, Bandomarotto[\/caption]<p>Alli fue donde establec\u00ed la base para conocer los poblados conocidos por los famosos <em>ikats<\/em>, las telas hechas a mano m\u00e1s famosas del pa\u00eds. Los dise\u00f1os, muy expresivos y de vivos colores, son representaciones hist\u00f3ricas y muestran una variedad de motivos muy sorprendentes: \u00e1rboles, ciervos, serpientes, caballos, figuras humanas, etc.<\/p><p>En cambio, el oeste es m\u00e1s tradicional, siendo <strong>Waikabubak<\/strong> el pueblo base para conocer y recorrer todos los pueblos tradicionales de la zona, llamados tambi\u00e9n <em>kampungs<\/em>. El sur posee las playas m\u00e1s bonitas y espectaculares de toda Nusa Tenggara.<\/p><p>En el este de Sumba, por aquellas casualidades del destino, me aloj\u00e9 en casa de un noble en el poblado de <strong>Prailiu<\/strong>, al lado de Waingapu. Era, para hecernos una idea, el alcalde del pueblo. En Sumba, la riqueza viene dada por las posesiones; cuantos m\u00e1s terrenos y animales (b\u00fafalos, caballos, cerdos) tiene una persona, m\u00e1s rico es considerado por los dem\u00e1s. Me acogi\u00f3 una familia numerosa de ocho hijos y con ellos pude compartir peque\u00f1as fiestas familiares como un miembro m\u00e1s de la familia.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13273\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"686\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13275\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_kepala_desa_waikabubak-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" \/> El <em>kepala desa<\/em>, jefe del poblado de Waikabubak[\/caption]<p>Empec\u00e9 a impregnarme de las costumbres y aprend\u00ed a comportarme en situaciones muy diferentes de mi cultura. La vida en Sumba gira en torno a los cultivos, a las aves \u00a0de corral y al betel.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13276\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13278\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_campos_arroz_malolo-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" \/> Campos de arroz de Malolo[\/caption]<p>Cada vez que visitaba un poblado ten\u00eda que pedir permiso al <em>kepala desa<\/em>, jefe del poblado, para que me permitiese entrar. \u00a0\u00c9ste me sac\u00f3 una bandeja donde me ofrec\u00eda betel y yo a \u00e9l. Es la manera tradicional de dar la bienvenida a los visitantes. Aunque no lo quisiera probar, me lo ten\u00eda que meter en el bolsillo.<\/p><p>Masticar la nuez de betel es una pr\u00e1ctica habitual que tiene propiedades estimulantes y da fuerza para poder continuar el d\u00eda. Las nueces de betel se mezclan con hojas que se llenan con cal muerta y otras sustancias que se utilizan para masticarlas. Hacen que se produzca mucha saliva roja, que se escupe y que ti\u00f1e la boca y los dientes, provocando que se caigan con el paso del tiempo. Otrora, la belleza de las mujeres se med\u00eda por la rojez de la boca.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13279\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"686\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13281\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_prepararando_betel-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"686\" height=\"1024\" \/> Preparando el betel[\/caption]<p>Me sorprende su cultura animista ya que su peque\u00f1o universo gira alrededor del <em>marapu,<\/em> los esp\u00edritus presentes en todo momento de la vida, desde el nacimiento hasta la muerte. De hecho, antes de cualquier acto con un m\u00ednimo de importancia \u2013un viaje, una boda, el inicio de una cosecha, la construcci\u00f3n de una casa\u2013 apelar\u00e1n al <em>marapu<\/em>, con la finalidad de asegurarse un buen resultado o un desenlace feliz.<\/p><p><strong>El oeste de Sumba<\/strong> es un para\u00edso tropical intacto. Me gust\u00f3 mucho m\u00e1s que el este de la isla. Sorprenden sus fant\u00e1sticas casas rurales o <em>kampungs<\/em><em>,<\/em> levantadas en forma de pir\u00e1mide sobre pilares de troncos. Siempre siguen un patr\u00f3n exacto y se construyen seg\u00fan una unidad social y ritual. Se suelen agrupar en torno a las tumbas de piedra de sus antepasados. Aunque ya las hab\u00eda visto al este, estas construcciones son a\u00fan m\u00e1s impresionantes, ya que los techos son m\u00e1s altos y elaborados. Hay que destacar los poblados de <strong>Ratenggaro <\/strong>y<strong> Rangabake<\/strong>; sin duda los que m\u00e1s me han sorprendido. Adem\u00e1s, se encuentran situados en lugares id\u00edlicos al lado del mar. En esta zona de la isla la gente me recibi\u00f3 con mucha curiosidad y como en toda Sumba, despu\u00e9s de la risue\u00f1a bienvenida mediante el habitual \u201cHello Mister!!\u201d, demostr\u00e1ndome una vez m\u00e1s lo mucho que les gusta que un occidental se interese por su cultura.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13282\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13284\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_tradicional_kampung_ratenggaro-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" \/> Tradicional <em>kampung<\/em>, Ratenggaro[\/caption]<p>Por suerte, a\u00fan quedan playas en el mundo donde los seres humanos a\u00fan no han intervenido. Me refiero a las <strong>playas<\/strong> de <strong>Marosi <\/strong><strong>y Rua<\/strong>. Los sumbaneses viven de espaldas al mar y s\u00f3lo lo utilizan para pescar. Por lo tanto, se puede caminar completamente solo por playas espectaculares, paradis\u00edacas y des\u00e9rticas. S\u00ed, realmente solo, sin hoteles, ni casas ni caminos. S\u00f3lo admiro el contraste de la vegetaci\u00f3n exuberante que va a morir a la arena blanca y al mar de azul esmeralda de sus playas. Corro, camino, salto; no me puedo creer d\u00f3nde estoy. He dejado pasar las horas bajo el sol tropical, buceando, recogiendo conchas por la playa. Me siento sobre las caracolas y el coral pulverizados para respirar la belleza y la tranquilidad que me rodea. Por un momento, el resto del mundo ha desaparecido m\u00e1s all\u00e1 del horizonte.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13285\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13287\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_playa_marosi_kadenga-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" \/> Playa Marosi, Kadenga[\/caption]<p>Pero una de las metas que ten\u00eda pendientes en Sumba eran los funerales, muy parecidos al pa\u00eds toraja de Sulawesi, de los que difieren simplemente por el lugar en donde son enterrados los difuntos.<\/p><p>Hab\u00eda fallecido el se\u00f1or Bunni Mesa Woleka, de 55 a\u00f1os, en el pueblo de <strong>Kalimbukuni<\/strong><strong>. <\/strong>Me acerqu\u00e9 el d\u00eda del funeral, me present\u00e9 a la familia y les ped\u00ed permiso para presenciar y fotografiar tan digna ceremonia. En se\u00f1al de respeto, me vest\u00ed al igual que ellos con el vestido tradicional consistente en un turbante y un vivo sarong en torno a la cintura, del que me colgaba un cuchillo dentro de una funda de madera. La muerte es el suceso m\u00e1s importante en la vida de los sumbaneses. Es objeto de particulares fastos y celebraciones. Creen que si se le hace una gran fiesta al difunto, \u00e9ste se convertir\u00e1 en antepasado y velar\u00e1 por el bienestar, la salud y por la suerte de su pr\u00f3jimo.<\/p><p>Todo empez\u00f3 a primera hora de la ma\u00f1ana, cuando fueron llegando los m\u00e1s de doscientos invitados, al ritmo de la m\u00fasica de los gongs de bronce. Llevaban regalos para los familiares del difunto, a quienes dieron el p\u00e9same. Consist\u00edan en b\u00fafalos, caballos o cerdos, que llegaron engalanados para la ocasi\u00f3n, y tambi\u00e9n de telas de ikat y coronas de flores de ropa. Todos los invitados se sentaron bajo la gran carpa que se hab\u00eda montado para acogerlos. Luego aguardaron a que diera comienzo la ceremonia religiosa en la que el sacerdote cristiano metodista pronunciara su serm\u00f3n, acompa\u00f1ado de una coral interpretando emotivos cantos. Acto seguido ya es la hora de comer y la familia ha preparado un gran buf\u00e9 en donde no falta de nada. Una vez satisfechos los est\u00f3magos, llega la apoteosis final de la ceremonia: el sacrificio de los animales. Se sacrifican en un n\u00famero proporcional a la riqueza de la familia del difunto. Para mi fue un sufrimiento dif\u00edcil de soportar. Apareci\u00f3 el primer b\u00fafalo arrastrado por diez hombres, mientras el matador ten\u00eda el cuchillo listo para practicarle un corte seco en el cuello, haciendo que la sangre brote como una fuente. El animal a\u00fan tiene fuerzas para negarse a morir de esa manera tan cruel, pero en pocos minutos cae abatido por la p\u00e9rdida de sangre, que se esparce a su lado como un r\u00edo rojo. Uno tras otro, los sacrificios se repiten hasta dar muerte a un total de once b\u00fafalos. Esto les produce una verdadera euforia. No tuvieron suficiente, e hicieron lo mismo con un caballo. Eso ya fue el punto final de una gran ceremonia sangrienta que acab\u00f3 con el descuartizamiento de todos los animales muertos para sacarles las tripas y la carne, que despu\u00e9s fue repartida entre todos los invitados. A mi tambi\u00e9n me toco mi parte.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13288\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-13290\" src=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/jordillorens_bloc_sumba_nusa_tenggara_indonesia_ceremonia_funeral_kalimbukuni-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"803\" \/> Ceremonia de un funeral en Kalimbukuni[\/caption]<p>A continuaci\u00f3n el difunto fue enterrado con ofrendas simb\u00f3licas de comida, adornos, ropa, joyas y betel para masticar.<\/p><p>Unos d\u00edas m\u00e1s tarde, tuve la ocasi\u00f3n de asistir a otro funeral, ese d\u00eda en el mismo <strong>Waikabubak<\/strong>. Hab\u00eda fallecido la madre de un conocido pol\u00edtico del pueblo.<\/p><p>Lo que les separa de nosotros es el concepto de la muerte: para nosotros es un adi\u00f3s, y para ellos es un viaje a otra dimensi\u00f3n.<\/p>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[46],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-memories"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Nusa Tenggara islands: Sumba - Jordi Llorens<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/en\/the-nusa-tenggara-islands-sumba\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Nusa Tenggara islands: Sumba - 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