{"id":13226,"date":"2020-02-05T17:14:34","date_gmt":"2020-02-05T16:14:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/ceremonia-circuncision-en-la-isla-detanna-vanuatu\/"},"modified":"2021-05-01T19:26:03","modified_gmt":"2021-05-01T17:26:03","slug":"ceremony-of-circumcision-on-the-island-of-tanna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/en\/ceremony-of-circumcision-on-the-island-of-tanna\/","title":{"rendered":"Ceremony of circumcision on the island of Tanna"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”3.22″ custom_padding=”0|0px|54px|0px|false|false”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”3.25″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_padding=”0|0px|27px|0px|false|false”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”3.25″ custom_padding=”|||” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat”]You are going to read many stories about Vanuatu, one of my favorite countries. But do you know where it is? Vanuatu is located in the Pacific Ocean, in Melanesia, 1,200 km east of Australia. It is an archipelago of volcanic origin formed by more than eighty islands and islets, many of which are uninhabited.<\/p>\n

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Among these islands there is one that, for me, stands out above all. This is Tanna,<\/strong> the most primitive island of Vanuatu discovered at the end of the 18th century by Captain Cook, where you still find primitive people who do not want to know anything about the western world, who still live in a traditional way: they preserve and practice initiation rites and circumcision and there are even those who make fire with two stones. They are the small nambas<\/em> that live in the same way as their ancestors and have not wanted to evolve. They have deep-rooted customs, enjoy magnificent landscapes and are accompanied by the Yasur volcano, still active. It is a journey in time and adventure.<\/p>\n

Just arriving at the airport I was approached by a man named John, who offered to take me to the town of Lenakel,<\/strong> the largest on the island. On the way we talked and I told him that I was interested in seeing a circumcision ceremony. Since then we didn\u2019t separate. I installed myself in his house with his children and his cats.<\/p>\n

Most of his family lives in Lamnatu<\/strong>, a town in the interior where my arrival caused a stir. There I met his parents, brothers and neighbors. Everyone was very hospitable to me; they did not leave me for a moment. They were very curious to know what were those buildings in Barcelona that showed them on postcards (Sagrada Familia, Cathedral).<\/p>\n

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John’s family curious with the postcards of Barcelona<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

John had a house of property. Melanesian people believe that they are raised by the earth they tread, in the same way that plants and trees do. Each family has the right to occupy the piece of land that they have inherited from their ancestors, but never to sell it. The only way to acquire property outside of his clan is by marrying a woman from another clan. Although locals are forgiving of foreigners, one should never leave the road to enter a town directly or pick a fruit. For them it is quite a provocation, since, for the Melanesian culture, making use of private property is a great offense.<\/p>\n

In Vanuatu the circumcision ceremonies are very frequent in September and it is an event that is celebrated for two days with great intensity. The time had come to see the authentic circumcision ceremony. For them, traditional life is a cycle of rituals: birth, circumcision, marriage and death.<\/p>\n

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The children for whom the circumcision ceremony is celebrated<\/p><\/div>\n

We arrived in the morning to the great esplanade, or nakamal<\/em>, of Lowkueria.<\/strong> There are manu people. The grandparents of the children who will be circumcised receive us. I go into the houses to see the preparations, which begin with the session in which both men and women paint their faces and dress with feathers, Christmas garlands and colorful clothes. They are certainly so striking that they arouse my full attention.<\/p>\n

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For the relatives of circumcised children it is a great celebration<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/div>\n

When the child is born, they name it as a girl and they change it only on the day of the circumcision, at the age of 10 to 12 years. Then it is when they take him to the forest where they build him a cabin on a tree, where he will spend three months after being circumcised. Only the men in the family will take food to him, be it the father, the uncles or the brothers. When the wounds have healed, he returns with his family to celebrate. From then, he will be considered a man, and his mother will no longer be able to punish him because his rank will be higher than that of his mother. He will live with his father or with the men of his family, and they will teach him the traditions of his clan and have responsibilities. Now he could dress the namba.<\/em><\/p>\n

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One of the circumcised children<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

While the friends arrive from other islands to celebrate the great party that is done in the great esplanade called, nakamal.<\/em> The offerings consist in palm rugs and the slaughter of pigs, goats and cows, as well as a lot of food that the guests bring.<\/p>\n

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The guests arrive with their gifts that they leave in the great plqaza called nakamal\u00a0<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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The relatives of the circumcised children turn the offerings as a sign of gratit<\/p><\/div>\n

When it gets dark starts the dance that will last all night. Men and women dance energetically in the middle of the square, to the rhythm of the drums. Barefoot, they spin from left to right, jumping up and down. The dances have different movements and the clouds of dust that rise are mixed with the smoke of different wood fires in a mysterious environment. The whole body vibrates like the earth that, at times, seems to sink until the sun rises.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The dances last all night until dawn<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The next day there is a hangover throughout the town, and the party meal is used, which can last for weeks. Living this ceremony has been quite an experience.<\/p>\n

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The food remains are distributed to all the guests<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

But the culminating experience of Tanna was to live with the most primitive of the island, those who still live like their ancestors, the small nambas<\/em>. John’s eldest son, Philippe, accompanied me to the town of Lenaulaul<\/strong>, our next destination and main objective.
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You are going to read many stories about Vanuatu, one of my favorite countries. But do you know where it is? Vanuatu is located in the Pacific Ocean, in Melanesia, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13190,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"

Vais a leer muchas historias de Vanuatu, uno de mis pa\u00edses preferidos. Pero sabes donde se encuentra? Vanuatu est\u00e1 situado en el oc\u00e9ano Pac\u00edfico, en la Melanesia, a 1.200 km al este de Australia. Se trata de un archipi\u00e9lago de origen volc\u00e1nico formado por m\u00e1s de ochenta islas e islotes, muchos de los cuales est\u00e1n deshabitados.<\/p>

\"\"<\/p>

Entre estas islas hay una que, para m\u00ed, destaca sobre todas. Esta es Tanna,<\/strong> la isla m\u00e1s primitiva de Vanuatu descubierta en el fin del siglo XVII por el capit\u00e1n Cook, donde a\u00fan encuentras pueblos primitivos que no quieren saber nada del mundo occidental, que a\u00fan viven de manera tradicional: conservan y practican los ritos de iniciaci\u00f3n y circuncisi\u00f3n e incluso hay quien hace fuego con dos piedras. Son los small nambas<\/em> que viven de igual manera que sus antepasados y no han querido evolucionar. Tienen costumbres muy arraigadas, disfrutan de paisajes soberbios y les acompa\u00f1a el volc\u00e1n Yasur, todav\u00eda en actividad. Es un viaje en el tiempo y a la aventura.<\/p>

Tan solo llegar al aeropuerto se me acerc\u00f3 un hombre llamado John, que me ofreci\u00f3 llevarme hasta el pueblo de Lenakel,<\/em><\/strong> el mayor de la isla. Por el camino charlamos y le dije que estaba interesado en ver una ceremonia de circuncisi\u00f3n. A partir de entonces ya no nos separamos m\u00e1s. Me instalo en su casa con sus hijos y sus gatos.<\/p>

La mayor\u00eda de su familia vive en Lamnatu,<\/strong> un pueblo del interior donde mi llegada provoc\u00f3 un gran revuelo. All\u00ed conoc\u00ed a sus padres, hermanos y vecinos. Todo el mundo fue muy hospitalario conmigo, no me dejaban ni un momento. Ten\u00edan mucha curiosidad por saber qu\u00e9 eran aquellos edificios de Barcelona que les mostraba en postales (Sagrada Familia, Catedral).\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13185\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" La familia de John curiosos con las postales de Barcelona[\/caption]

John ten\u00eda una casa de propiedad. Los melan\u00e9sicos creen que son criados por la tierra que pisan, de la misma manera que lo hacen las plantas y los \u00e1rboles. Cada familia tiene derecho a ocupar el trozo de tierra que ha heredado de sus antepasados, pero nunca a venderla. La \u00fanica manera de adquirir propiedades fuera de su clan es cas\u00e1ndose con una mujer de otro clan. Aunque los locales son indulgentes con los extranjeros, uno nunca debe salirse de la carretera para entrar directamente en un pueblo o coger una fruta. Para ellos es toda una provocaci\u00f3n, ya que, para la cultura melan\u00e9sica, hacer uso de una propiedad privada es una gran ofensa.<\/p>

En Vanuatu las ceremonias de circuncisi\u00f3n son muy frecuentes en septiembre y es un evento que se celebra durante dos d\u00edas con mucha intensidad. \u00a0Hab\u00eda llegado el momento de ver la aut\u00e9ntica ceremonia de circuncisi\u00f3n. Para ellos, la \u00a0vida tradicional es un ciclo de rituales: el nacimiento, la circuncisi\u00f3n, la boda y la muerte. \u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13188\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Preparadas para la ceremonia de circuncisi\u00f3n[\/caption]

Llegamos por la ma\u00f1ana a la gran explanada, o nakamal,<\/em> de Lowkueria.<\/strong> Hay mucha gente. Nos reciben los abuelos de los ni\u00f1os que ser\u00e1n circuncidados. Entro en las casas para ver los preparativos, que empiezan con la sesi\u00f3n en que tanto los hombres como las mujeres se pintan las caras y se visten con plumas, guirnaldas de Navidad y ropa de muchos colores. Ciertamente son tan llamativos que despiertan toda mi atenci\u00f3n.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13194\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Uno de los ni\u00f1os circuncidados[\/caption]

Cuando el ni\u00f1o nace, le ponen nombre de ni\u00f1a y le cambian solo el d\u00eda de la circuncisi\u00f3n, a la edad de entre 10 a 12 a\u00f1os. Entonces es cuando lo llevan al bosque donde le construyen una caba\u00f1a sobre un \u00e1rbol, en donde pasar\u00e1 tres meses despu\u00e9s de ser circuncidado. Solo le llevar\u00e1n comida los hombres de su familia, ya sea el padre, los t\u00edos o los hermanos. Cuando las heridas han cicatrizado, vuelve con su familia para celebrarlo. A partir de entonces ya ser\u00e1 considerado un hombre, y su madre ya no lo podr\u00e1 castigar porque su rango ser\u00e1 m\u00e1s alto que el de su progenitora. Vivir\u00e1 con su padre o con los hombres de su familia, y le ense\u00f1ar\u00e1n las tradiciones de su clan y a tener responsabilidades. Ahora ya puede vestir el namba<\/em>.\u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13197\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Los ni\u00f1os por los que se celebra la ceremonia de la circuncisi\u00f3n[\/caption]

Mientras los amigos llegan de otras islas para celebrar la gran fiesta que se hace en la gran explanada del pueblo llamado, nakamal. <\/em>Consiste en la ofrenda de alfombras de palma y en la matanza de cerdos, cabras y vacas, adem\u00e1s de mucha comida que llevan los invitados.\u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13209\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Van llegando los invitados con sus regalos que dejan en la gran plaza del nakamal<\/em>[\/caption][caption id=\"attachment_13200\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Los familiares de los ni\u00f1os circuncidados dan la vuelta a las ofrendas como se\u00f1al de agradecimiento[\/caption]

Cuando oscurece empieza el baile que durar\u00e1 toda la noche. Hombres y mujeres bailan en\u00e9rgicamente en medio de la plaza, al ritmo de los tambores. Descalzos, dan vueltas de izquierda a derecha, saltando arriba y abajo. Los bailes tienen movimientos diferentes y las nubes de polvo que se levanta se mezclan con el humo de diferentes fogatas en un ambiente misterioso. Todo el cuerpo vibra como la tierra que, a veces, parece que se hunda hasta salir el sol.\u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13203\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Los bailes duran toda la noche hasta el amanecer[\/caption]

Al d\u00eda siguiente hay resaca en todo el pueblo, y se aprovecha la comida de la fiesta, que puede durar semanas. Vivir esta ceremonia ha sido toda una experiencia.\u00a0<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_13206\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"1200\"]\"\" Los restos de comida son repartidos a todos los invitados[\/caption]

Pero la experiencia culminante de Tanna era vivir con los m\u00e1s primitivos de la isla, los que a\u00fan viven como sus antepasados, los small nambas. <\/em>El hijo mayor de John, Philippe, me acompa\u00f1\u00f3 al poblado de Lenaulaul,<\/strong> nuestro destino y objetivo principal.<\/p>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[46],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13226","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-memories"],"yoast_head":"\nCeremony of circumcision on the island of Tanna - Jordi Llorens<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jordillorens.com\/en\/ceremony-of-circumcision-on-the-island-of-tanna\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ceremony of circumcision on the island of Tanna - 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